Next stop was a visit to Pompey’s Pillar, a giant roman pillar built on a rock terrace guarded by two sphinx and surrounded by Alexandria suburbia.  While it may be named after Pompey a Roman general who fled Rome following a clash with Cesar it was not built for him.  It was believed that the pillar marked the place of burial for Pompey who died in Egypt around 48 BC but the pillar was actually built centuries later for the Roman Emperor Diocletian as symbol of victory following a revolt in Alexandria around 300 AD.  The downfall of the Ptolomaic dynasty led to Egypt being conquered and ruled by Rome until it was liberated by the Arabs around 640 AD.  I use the term liberated because it was the Egyptian people who sort help from the Arabs to rid Egypt of the Romans.

Before the 30 meter granite pillar was built  this place was actually a grand temple dedicated to the god Serapis.  Known as the Serapeum or Alexandria acropolis it was destroyed by Christians in 391AD  and what remains of it are the foundations and underground tunnels that were used to house the priests of the temple.  The tunnels are open to visitors but there is not much to see, many of the artifacts that survived have been removed but an Apis bull is still in place in one of the underground tunnels.

I loved that this place sits in the heart of a residential area perhaps much like it would have been centuries ago but without the apartment buildings and satellite tv dishes.  A typical Egyptian home is not complete with out the days washing hanging on the line  outside the living room window and satellite dishes dotting the roofs.  I feel like I was able to see into both past and present Egyptian living as I wondered around the foundations of what must have been an amazing place of worship.

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Mohamed

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